01
Getting there
From Bucharest it is 170 km to the southern entrance. The road is closed by snow from around late October until the end of June; check before you commit the day.
02
Where I slept
Guesthouses (pensiuni) at both ends, 25–40 € with breakfast. Cabana Bâlea Lac at the top is basic and books out weeks ahead.
03
Riding experience
The southern climb is fast and open, the northern descent is the tight one. Surface is good but gravel washes across the bends after rain.
04
The vibe
Famous enough to be busy at midday and empty at seven in the morning. Sheep on the road are not a cliché, they are a fact.
05
What it cost
Fuel 1.45 €/l, guesthouse 25–40 €, dinner 8–12 €. A day here costs about half of what the Alps cost.
Notes
Bâlea Lac has no fuel. The last station is in Cârțișoara and it closes at eight.
What happened
- 13:00Sheep across the road, full stop, engine off, waited
